Fish tacos at Tia Juanita’s Fish Camp. Guiseppe Barranco/@spotnewsshooter
In a building that has seen its share of local restaurants come and go, a new concept is hoping to stick around for a while.
This incarnation of 5555 Calder Ave. is relying on a casual atmosphere and a simple menu that features a little Cajun and lots of seafood, with hints of Tex-Mex.
Owned by Ricky Martinez and named after his Aunt Juanita, Tia Juanita’s Fish Camp is not what you might expect.
“We didn’t want to do Mexican food, but I’m Mexican,” Martinez said. “We eat seafood as much as anyone else.”
With a slightly tongue-in-cheek approach, Martinez creates a relaxed medley of cultures in his establishment.
A Honey Booboo poster is positioned irreverently between Zorro and Selena, and a bucket of peanuts greets customers at every table.
The gumbo recipe uses a thick, milk chocolate-colored roux made from scratch with a hint of spice, developed by Martinez with help from his Opelousas, Louisiana-native girlfriend.
The authenticity is palpable.
Jalapeno ranch is another notable feature. Most fish tacos come with some kind of sauce, and these just so happen to be served with a finger-lickin’ house-made jalapeno ranch.
Tia Juanita's Fish Camp
A foolproof appetizer choice is the dip sampler — seasoned tortilla chips served with the jalapeno ranch, guacamole and homemade salsa.
The salsa is Martinez’s special recipe.
“I’ve been doing that salsa for 30 years now, making it for parties. My mom even asked me how to make it,” Martinez said. If you’re a chips and salsa connoisseur, this is a place to check out.
Recommendations: Gary and Ivy Cobb have quickly become regulars.
“We love it,” Gary said. “We’ve only been here 14 times. They have the best fish tacos in town. The jalapeno ranch is different and really good and the hush puppies are really, really good.”
The fish tacos are a repeat favorite among regulars.
“I’ve had the fish tacos five times now,” Terra Koch said. “It’s a little bit of Mexican and seafood all rolled into a delicious thing. I like the Cajun seasoning on the fish, and they’re light.”
Martha and Alan Chisum were first-timers.
“It was delicious — some of the best chicken and sausage gumbo I’ve had,” Martha said. “The fish tacos were superb, with good balance of flavor.”
The drink situation: Beer and wine, baby.
Make it a group effort by ordering the 32-ounce bottle of Corona, which is obviously meant to be shared.
Atmosphere: Casual and come-as-you-are. Walk through the covered outdoor patio — where they host occasional live music — and up to the counter where you order. Kick back on said patio and wait for your food to come to you.
Extras and Specials: Ask if they have any house-made sopapilla cheesecake or fudge pie and look for new menu items down the road, like fajitas.
The verdict: Even with plans for a few menu additions in the future, this will still be a simple place with simple food. If they continue to keep it fresh and do it well — with friendly service in an easygoing atmosphere — Tia Juanita’s Fish Camp will serve Southeast Texas some tasty fish tacos for years to come.
Tia Juanita’s Fish Camp
Where: 5555 Calder, Beaumont
Info: (409) 434–4532; “Tia Juanita’s Fish Camp” on Facebook
Hours: 11 a.m.– 9 p.m. Sunday–Thursday, 11 a.m.–10 p.m. Friday & Saturday
Price range: $4.99 cup of chicken & sausage gumbo, $7.99 three fish tacos, $8.99 shrimp poboy, $11.99 shrimp and grilled veggie plate, $26.99 for 18 jumbo fried shrimp with fries and hushpuppies
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